Modern hair colouring techniques: Comparison of balayage, shatush and airtouch methods in choosing the optimal technique for clients
Keywords:
colouristics, pigment, gradient, hair fibre structure, chemical load, porosity, methods of dye applicationAbstract
The aim of the article was to substantiate the optimal choice of partial lightening technique for different hair types through a combination of historical, chemical and applied analysis. The methodological logic covered a historical and chemical review of sources, an analysis of the classification of dyes and a comparison of three partial colouring techniques (balayage, shatush, airtouch) with an assessment of the impact on the hair. The main results showed that the transition from natural pigments to oxidative systems formed a classification according to depth of penetration and colourfastness; the technological parameters that determine the safety and durability of the result were systematised. For manual application with a stretch of colour, the nature of a soft horizontal gradation and moderate contact of reagents with the fibre was established; the typical correction interval was approximately from three to six months, the duration of the procedure was about 2-4 hours, and the degree of damage was assessed as low, provided that the exposure time was correctly controlled. For backcombing of strands, a diffuse vertical gradation, the ability to mask single grey hairs and correction intervals of about 4-5 months were determined; the duration of the procedure was 3-4 hours; the risk of damage increased under excessive mechanical impact. For air separation, the most delicate transition and the lowest load on the cuticle were revealed, the duration of preserving the effect was approximately 5-6 months with proper care, and the duration of the procedure was 4-6 hours, which correlated with a higher cost. Comparative analysis according to nine criteria showed the expediency of air separation for fine and weakened hair, backcombing of strands for dense or wavy structures, and manual application for medium density and naturally dark blond or chestnut bases. The practical significance of the work lies in the implementation of an algorithm for choosing a technique that takes into account the morphological characteristics of the hair fibre, the predicted duration of the effect, the intensity of chemical impact and the economics of the salon service
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